When I was researching the Camino and trying to gain information as I prepared, I found inspiration through people’s stories and spiritual insights, but I also was helped so much by very practical information shared by pilgrims. In today’s post, I am simply going to share some observations and bullet points for readers to gain assistance if they are planning to walk the French Route of the Camino.
*I booked online my overnight lodging in Sarria. After all of the travel to get to Sarria, I didn’t want to be wandering the streets in the evening looking for a place to stay. So a few months before my departure, I literally googled lodging in Sarria, Spain. Through Priceline, I booked a simple private room with a shared bathroom down the hall at Casa Matías for $22. It was perfect and fit well into my travel style. Sarria has about 13,500 people, and there are plenty of options for lodging in this community.
*At about 6:30 a.m., I was on my long awaited way. My first few steps out of Sarria took me over a stream on a foot bridge and then directly up a fairly good sized hill. Hill?! Note to self: When training for the Camino, don’t only walk flat bike paths in Iowa. Find a few hills in the training.
*My first walking companion was Ian from Great Britain. I came across several solo walkers and retired couples walking this morning. As I walked by folks, I wondered, “Do they want conversation?” “Do they know English?” It didn’t take long after a friendly hello to discern openness. Most all pilgrims are at least open for short spells of introduction and learning a bit about where each other came from and what brought them to Camino. Many pilgrims had started about 25 days before me in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port on the French side of the Pyrenees Mtns. I was eager to hear their tales of pilgrimage.
*My first stop was at a café in Barbadelo up the hill from the path. Along with a coffee and banana purchase, I bought a shell for my backpack. The scallop shell, born of legend, is a central symbol on the Camino de Santiago and brands one as a part of the pilgrim community. I cannot lie. Tying the shell to my backpack was a thrilling moment for me.
*I entered Portomarín at 1p.m. What a grand entrance into this city: Across the beautiful Río Miño bridge, up a beautiful stone staircase, and under a regal arch. Incredible. Portomarín is a hub town (pop. 2,000) on the Camino and many people stop and lodge here. I, however, stopped only to treat a hot spot forming on my big right toe and to get a bocadillo (sandwich) for the way. I was going to walk on for another 2 hours to the village of Gonzár and hope for an opening at an albergue (hostel) called Casa García. On a Camino forum, I had read good reviews about this albergue. I was eager to press on and, after these 15 miles, could feel some fatigue setting in.
*The following two hours of walking the 7 miles from Portomarín to Gonzár were desolate. No cafés, people, nor towns. After 22 miles of walking, Casa Garcia appeared as if an oasis in the middle of nowhere. A small and quaint little stone compound at the 84 km mark on the Camino Francés. There was a bunk available, and I promptly took a warm shower, washing some of my clothing in it, and then settling in for the remainder of the afternoon and evening after my first big day.
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