Overview of Day 5 into Santiago!
*After a short night, I was up and traveling alone by headlamp at 5:00 a.m. through a Eucalyptus Forest. It was both spectacular and spooky. The scent was nothing I had ever experienced to that degree…euphoric eucalyptus.
*My adrenalin was pumping as I walked the first 90 minutes solo in the dark through forests and villages, along highways. Lots of deep breathing and repeating of Psalm 23 to keep my fear and imagination in check. What a welcome sight to run into some fellow pilgrims and to see the beautiful sunrise this morning.
*So many pilgrims now, mid-morning, heading toward Santiago. As we neared Monto do Gozo (Mount of Joy) there was a 10 minute walk to an overlook where 2 pilgrim statues pointed toward Santiago, a faint view of the cathedral seen in the distance. Other pilgrims seemed not to care about this overlook, but after doing some mental math to see if I had time, I decided to go for it, and got to have it all to myself for about 15 minutes before a tour bus came rolling to a stop next to it.
*Other than getting two stamps for my pilgrim passport, a quick breakfast along the route, and those 15 minutes at the overlook, I did not dally today. I wanted to be in Santiago for the Pilgrim’s Mass, and so I walked at a faster clip than I had all week. I could sense a change of tone along the route, perhaps it was just in me, or maybe it was all around. There was less lingering, less eye contact, less “presence”, as we all set our sights on Santiago. Yet, at the same time, there was a spark of anticipation and excitement that was electric. Pilgrims who had walked 30 plus days were on their final leg. Routes had merged and there was a sweeping movement toward those cathedral spires that could now be seen from Monto do Gozo.
*Santiago de Compostela’s population is about 100,000 people. So, as we came down into the city, pilgrims had to walk quite a long time through the city to get to the cathedral. And while we walked the narrow streets, the cathedral was perfectly hidden. There was no sign of it. At this point, I was giddy with joy and anticipation. And then. Walking across a plaza area, through a tunnel, and around a corner. There it was looming in front of me. La Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. It was magnificent. I checked my backpack into a holding space, and entered the cathedral for a tour and a chance to hug a statue of St. James the Apostle. Due to cathedral renovation, the Pilgrim’s Mass was being held down the street at the San Francisco Cathedral.
*The Pilgrim’s Mass was packed. I saw other pilgrims I had met at various albergues, and it was like a joyous family reunion. Elation. I cannot even imagine the emotions of the pilgrim who had walked the full 500 mile Camino Frances. Such an accomplishment for them! The mass was in Spanish, and while I did not understand much, I could feel the music and the message in my bones. At the invitation for Communion, do forgive me, but I ignored the request that only those who ascribed to Catholicism take part. There was no more significant culminating act to represent this Camino than the partaking of the bread and wine together in community with other pilgrims.
*Off to the Pilgrim’s Office to wait in line for my certificate….my Compostela. I had to show my pilgrim’s passport and prove through my stamps that I had walked the Sarria to Santiago leg of the journey. While in line, I had a great visit with Mary and Richard from Toronto, a retired couple who had just spent two weeks along the Portuguese Way into Santiago.
*I stayed at a hotel with my own room, my own shower, and a laundry service. Indulgent and wonderful. After walking 23 miles today, I ate a hearty meal at a restaurant, and enjoyed the bustling sounds, sights, and shops in Santiago before turning out the lights on this momentous day.
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